Mykonos After Midnight — Where the Maison Dines

Mykonos before ten at night is a postcard. After eleven it becomes itself.

Dine late. Nobody of consequence sits down before half past nine, and the best terraces in Little Venice only begin to fill as the last of the light leaves the water. Book the second seating and take an aperitivo on the rocks beforehand.

Stay west. The windward side is cooler, the crowds thinner, and the sunset belongs to you rather than to a queue of cameras.

Keep a driver. Taxis are scarce, the roads are unlit, and a car waiting quietly at the door is the single upgrade that changes an evening.

And leave one night empty. The best table on the island is almost always the one somebody invites you to at the last minute.